{"id":53,"date":"2017-12-13T21:39:54","date_gmt":"2017-12-13T21:39:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/mike-stalkfleet.com\/blog\/?p=53"},"modified":"2017-12-14T22:26:37","modified_gmt":"2017-12-14T22:26:37","slug":"shaper-outboard-fence","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/mike-stalkfleet.com\/blog\/2017\/12\/13\/shaper-outboard-fence\/","title":{"rendered":"Shaper outboard fence"},"content":{"rendered":"

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To run flooring or any other material that needs to be a consistent width after profiling the edge, the way to do it is to run it through the shaper not pressed up against the stock fence, but to attach an outboard fence set at a precise distance away from the cutter, and set up the power feeder to run the material up against that.\u00a0 For a while I just used a piece of wood clamped to the table, but that was awful–the process of making fine adjustments to shave off an additional .005″ was all but impossible, and was just a trial and error.<\/p>\n

So, after looking at several designs on the internet, none of which I liked, I came up with the following design:<\/p>\n

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It attaches to the shaper with four tapped bolts, and it easy to remove and reinstall.\u00a0 It doesn’t add any thickness to the top of the table.\u00a0 It is built around two 1\/2″-20tpi threaded rods that are synced with the chain and sprockets.\u00a0 The fence portion is a piece of angle iron with a replaceable wood fence, that is plowed for the feeder wheels.\u00a0 The fence portion also has knob clamps to snug it to the table after adjustment is made.\u00a0 The threaded rod being 20tpi means that adjustments to the fence position are pretty straightforward, 10 turns is .500″ 5 turns is .250″ 1 turn is .050″ 1\/2 a turn is .025 etc.\u00a0 I use a 3\/4″ wrench to make adjustments–I bought a big ass hand-wheel to use, but it was just going to be in the way, and I thought that frequency of adjustments are so low, that a wrench is just fine.<\/p>\n

Haven’t had too much chance to test it out yet, but it seems like a winner so far.\u00a0 Need to take it all apart and paint it before it gets too rusty.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

  To run flooring or any other material that needs to be a consistent width after profiling the edge, the way to do it is to run it through the shaper not pressed up against the stock fence, but to attach an outboard fence set at a precise distance away […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":55,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"image","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-53","post","type-post","status-publish","format-image","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-wood-related","post_format-post-format-image"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/mike-stalkfleet.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/53","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/mike-stalkfleet.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/mike-stalkfleet.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/mike-stalkfleet.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/mike-stalkfleet.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=53"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"http:\/\/mike-stalkfleet.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/53\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":168,"href":"http:\/\/mike-stalkfleet.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/53\/revisions\/168"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/mike-stalkfleet.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/55"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/mike-stalkfleet.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=53"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/mike-stalkfleet.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=53"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/mike-stalkfleet.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=53"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}